jetjunkies

April 26, 2026

Founded in the 1st century BC, León is surprising large considering the small population of around 122,000. A little larger than Cádiz. Perhaps the robust historical area, shopping, restaurants and vineyards are part of what attracts so many visitors. Being on the French Way of the Camino de Santiago a UNESCO world heritage site is certainly the attraction for the many pilgrims. The city is located in the autonomous communities of Castile and Leon, in the Northwest region of Spain. León is a wonderful place to enjoy the famous wines of Castile y León. I enjoyed two tintos vinos made with the local Prieto Picudo variety of grape. An intense small, thin skinned red grape that has aromas of red fruit and violets, it was delicious.

The Gothic cathedral (1844) was built on the site of Roman baths. A heavy French influence shows in the very delicate buttresses and decorative elements, including the reduction of interior wall ornamentation in favor of one of the largest collections of medieval stained glass in the world.

The stained glass was fired at low temperatures, which was all that was possible at the time, then fired again with a protective coating. Over the centuries the coating has been eroded by environmental conditions, resulting in a deterioration of the glass and the need for ongoing repairs, hence the 8€ admission fee. Well worth the price…

Onward to the Basilica of San Isidoro which houses original frescoes and a museum. The Basilica’s roots are in the 10th century, founded on the site of a monastery dedicated to Saint John the Baptist.

In 1188 the Cortes of León (meetings of a parliamentary body, as a council to King Alfonso IX) were held here. Not only were nobles and high church officials appointed, but wealthy merchants and tradesmen. It was the first sample of parliamentarian body in the history of Europe (Wiki).

Having worn ourselves out, we decided to save Casa Botines the Gaudí building for the next day.

Antoni Gaudí was 39 years old when he was commissioned to design and supervise construction of Casa Botine, for Simón Fernández and Mariano Andrés, the owners of a company that purchased imported fabrics and designed clothing. Although a modernist structure on the interior, the exterior was designed to be harmonious with Leóns historic buildings. It has a medieval and neo-gothic style, but the interior ground floor was left open with the novel use of cast iron pillars. The owners living quarters were on the first floor and there were apartments on the upper floors. There were also other businesses in the building.

The building has been restored and is now a museum. There are exhibits of prior businesses, residences and Spanish artists.

We are off to Madrid tomorrow for our final few days in Spain.