Palm Sunday

March 30, 2026

On the run up to Easter, which is a week long event in Cádiz, we made another attempt to have our afternoon meal at the Chinese restaurant in southern Cádiz. This time we took the bus the 3+ miles to the restaurant. It was a disappointing meal, really mediocre. But they made up for that in volume. Pete ordered 3 course lunch, it came with a large salad and 2 dinner plates filled with food. Mine was equally large, but I only ordered one dish and soup. This restaurant has many high ratings and there was a line to get in when we left. Maybe we just ordered the wrong dishes. BTY Pete’s entire meal was 12.70€.

Cathedral in the left background, looking from the south.

We lost our minds again and decided to walk back along the sea promenade. It was 67 degrees F and the sun was intense, as it was Saturday people were out sunbathing, playing fútbol, fishing and eating in beachside restaurants.

Soccer in the sand has to be very difficult.

The next day was Palm Sunday and people were carrying little Palm fronds after church services. A small church on Calle Anche was open and we popped in to take a look. The tiny church was filled with 2 large processional platforms.

This platform is sitting on top of the alter.
This platform was taking up half the seating area.

We were wondering how they could get these ornate, huge pasos (processional floats) out the church doors. The pasos are carried on the shoulders of young men, with no padding. You can see the wooden poles that run the length of the platform. One man on each corner and many underneath.

We were on the roof watching a spectacular sunset when we heard drums beating out a cadence.

Looking towards the church in Plaza San Antonio.

We rushed out, the music and drumming were headed our way. I dashed through Plaza San Antonio to a little side street to try and avoid the scrum, as Pete likes to call the dense crowds. The Spanish are not adverse to body contact.

The pasos are lowered periodically to allow the bearers to rest and relight candles.

The conical hats in different colors and banners indicate the different religious brotherhoods, they carry the pasos and march as penitents, some barefoot, some dragging chains. The hoods and masking are a holdover from the inquisition and have become traditional. Both men and women participate in the processions. Reading in bed I could hear the drums beating until midnight.

Yesterday we were trying out a new restaurant recommended by a friendly Spanish lady we met. Between her little English and my little Spanish we had a lovely chat. We were first attracted to her beautiful 22 month old Golden Retriever. Cádiz is a dog city, similar to Portland. Anyway on our way to Plaza Candelaria for gelato after lunch we ran into another procession.

Children giving out candy and little cards with pictures of Jesus and Mary.
This group is the first we’ve seen dragging chains.

Getting around town has become a game of dodging the processions that clog the streets with participants and observers. People have come from all over Europe to attend Catholic Easter services in Seville and Cádiz.

Here is a photo from Pete’s morning walk. Spain had a spring forward time change and it is now dark when he sets out.

Walking til sunrise

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